Split in October: Ancient Streets & Adriatic Calm

Split is a city that feels alive in every corner, where modern cafés spill out onto ancient Roman streets, and the scent of espresso drifts past centuries-old stone walls. Walking through the narrow passages of Diocletian’s Palace, it’s easy to see why people fall for Split’s easygoing rhythm—the Adriatic is shimmering at the end of nearly every street, locals chatting over coffee in hidden courtyards, and the buzz of the market where figs and fresh bread fill your daypack for later.

We used Split as our starting point in Croatia, letting ourselves settle into the Mediterranean pace. We lingered over coffee, enjoying the sea breezes before eventually moving into the day’s sightseeing, only to return to the waterfront for cocktails, soaking in the golden-hour light that seems to drape itself over the city each evening. Nothing was rushed, and nothing had to happen. It was the perfect way to unwind from work and prep for the upcoming bike adventure.

Into and Out of Split

We arrived in Split via rental car after visiting Krka right from the airport. We had to walk a bit from the rental place to our Airbnb in Old Town, but it was nice to see the more modern side of Split, knowing we would be focusing on Old Town. If coming from the airport, the best option is bus #37, costing about 4 euros and taking about 40 minutes.

We left Split via ferry right from the ferry terminal, which also happens to be beside the train station and bus station. The ferry terminal was very busy even in the shoulder season, as it serves both passengers and transport trucks to the islands. It took a bit to find where to buy tickets; there were some small kiosks, but the people were helpful.

The train station looks small and a little run-down, with only a few train connection options. Direct trains go between Split and Zagreb or Zadar, but not to Dubrovnik. Generally, the recommendation is to take buses for quicker travel, better connections and lower prices.

Things to Do:

Diocletian’s Palace

Diocletian didn’t hold back when planning his retirement—his palace takes up nearly all of Split’s Old Town. Today, it’s far more than ancient ruins: modern life hums through its stone corridors, where locals live, shop, and sip coffee in the same spaces Roman soldiers once marched. You can wander freely through the palace, but having a guide would help you understand what you’re looking at. It’s massive—some tours run up to five hours! That should give you an idea of just how much there is to take in.

Waterfront Riva Promenade

The Riva is Split’s living room—a palm-lined stretch along the waterfront that invites you to slow down. Cafés spill out onto the wide walkway, and benches offer a front-row seat to the Adriatic. It’s just as lovely at sunrise as it is at sunset (though you won’t find much open early). Don’t miss the iconic Split sign at the eastern end, near the model displays of the palace and old town.

Marjan Hill Stairs & Forest Park

Just west of Old Town, Marjan is a green peninsula of pine forest and sea views that feels a world away from the bustle below. Most visitors tackle the 300+ stairs to reach the lookout (with stunning panoramic views), then loop back down via the road. We did just that—pausing at the cat sanctuary at the top, naturally. Sadly, the cats weren’t too keen on socializing that day, but the views made up for it. If you’re into walking or cycling, the park has plenty of trails to explore.

Split Archaeological Museum

Tucked away just outside the Old Town, the Archaeological Museum is the oldest in Split (founded in 1820). The main building feels more like a stately villa, with Roman statues and stone artifacts tucked into a peaceful garden courtyard. Exhibits focus on local history, with an emphasis on authenticity over spectacle—nothing imported just to impress tourists. We caught the “Memento Mori” exhibit, which explored ancient funeral rites and beliefs around death. A surprisingly reflective and beautifully presented display.

Other things to do…

Day trip to nearby Krka National Park
Game of Thrones Museum
Nearby wine or olive oil tastings
Water activities

Where to eat:

Breakfast/Brunch

Ciri Biri Bela – Tucked just outside the busy palace walls, Ciri Biri Bela offers a leafy courtyard escape with hearty, beautifully plated breakfasts. Think sourdough, eggs, fresh fruit, and generous coffee pours—ideal fuel for a full day of exploring.

Bistro Ka’ doma – A little farther from the tourist zone, this spot feels much more local. The name means “like home,” and it lives up to that—friendly service, unpretentious vibes, and classic Croatian breakfast dishes done right. Worth the walk if you want to eat where locals do.

Lunch/Dinner

Velum – Located in the ACI Marina just west of Old Town, Velum delivers a fresh seafood menu with views of bobbing boats. We shared grilled fish, local wine, and a breezy terrace sunset—easy, unhurried, and delicious.

Lafido – A little quieter, a little more polished—Lafido feels like a local favourite that still welcomes newcomers. Their risottos and pasta dishes were standouts, and the setting feels just upscale enough without trying too hard. A good pick for a relaxed dinner away from the crowds.