Naxos was the first stop on the island-hopping portion of our trip. We added it last minute because it was well connected by ferry and plane — but it turned out to be one of our best decisions. Naxos was exactly what we were looking for: authentic, welcoming, and not nearly as overrun with tourists as some of the more famous islands. Two days weren’t nearly enough, but it gave us a perfect first taste of the Cyclades.
A Little History & Mythology
Naxos is the largest and greenest of the Cycladic islands, home to fertile valleys, mountains, and endless stretches of farmland. Its patron god is Dionysus, the god of wine and festivity, fitting for an island that feels so full of life. Ancient mythology tells us that this was where Dionysus met Ariadne, after she was abandoned by Theseus on the shore. Beyond myths, Naxos is also famous today for its potatoes (locals claim they’re the best in Greece), its creamy cheeses, and its Kitron liqueur made from citron leaves.
Getting There
- By Ferry: Ferries from Athens to Naxos take around 5 hours, with Blue Star being the main operator. In summer, there are multiple options daily, including evening departures.
- By Plane: We chose to fly from Athens, just 30 minutes in the air. While the ferry arrived near midnight, the flight allowed us to enjoy a bit of our first evening.
Day 1 – Evening Arrival
Arriving on a tiny propeller plane made the journey even more memorable. The airport is small and chaotic, but the drive into Hora (Chora), Naxos’ main town, takes just 15 minutes. After checking in, we rushed straight out to the Portara, a massive marble gateway that once marked the entrance to the Temple of Apollo. The wind and waves were wild that evening, so instead of joining the crowds on the causeway, we admired it from the harbour and promised to return. Dinner along the port set the tone for the island — hearty, fresh, and unpretentious.
Day 2 – Beach Day Bliss
We were craving some relaxation after Athens, Meteora and Delphi, so we spent the day at Agios Georgios Beach, just steps from our hotel. The water was clear, sandy, and perfect for swimming, though busy with families near town. We rented loungers at Trata and spent the day napping, swimming, and sipping cold beers under the sun. It was the kind of day where time doesn’t matter — exactly what we needed after a busy week.
That evening, we strolled the pedestrian streets of Hora, window-shopped for leather sandals, and enjoyed a casual dinner before an early night.
If you are looking for something other than a beach day, consider:
- Finding the Kouros Statues – ancient colossal statues carved of local marble
- Wandering Old Town Hora and the Venetian Palace
- Visit small towns, taste wine, and sample the lemon liquor
- Visit the Temple of Demeter
Day 3 – Mount Zas & South Coast Beaches
Hiking Mt. Zas
For our third day, we rented a car to explore more of the island. Our main goal was hiking Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades. Being the highest peak, it is a climb – 500 m elevation over 5 kilometres. Starting at Aria Spring, the trail is rock-paved and easy to follow. Once we passed the Cave of Zeus, the trail became a big boulder field to scramble over. I suggest stopping inside the Cave of Zeus on your way down – there isn’t much to see, but it is nice and cool!
Eventually, the boulders shrink, but this doesn’t make the trail any easier to follow. Make sure you keep your eye peeled for the stone cairns (mounds). The trail is hot and mostly unshaded, so make sure to bring lots of water and some snacks. I would recommend starting early in the day, too. The effort is worth it for the sweeping island views – and watching the cheeky goats who make the climb look effortless!
Trip around the island
With the car, we headed south to explore the island’s famous beaches — Pyrgaki, Alyko, and Hawaii Beach. Each had crystal-clear turquoise water and soft sand. Near Alyko, we found a surprising detour: abandoned building ruins decorated with striking street art.
On our way back north, we stopped at Agios Prokopios for a quick snack before returning the car.
That evening, we made it back to the Portara for sunset, and this time joined the crowds. It’s one of the most magical views in the Cyclades — golden skies reflecting on the sea, the marble gate glowing against the horizon, and the whitewashed houses of Hora lit up behind us.
Day 4 – Departure to Santorini
The next morning, we caught the ferry to Santorini. Looking back, I wish we’d given Naxos at least one or two more days — to explore the old castle in Hora, visit the Temple of Demeter, wander the whitewashed hilltop villages, and spend more time beach-hopping. Two days were just enough to fall in love with Naxos, but not nearly enough to do it justice.
Overview of Things to Do in Naxos
- Watch the sunset at the Portara
- Spend a day at the beach (Agios Georgios, Agios Prokopios, or head south)
- Hike Mount Zas for panoramic views
- Visit inland villages like Filoti or Melanes
- Explore ancient ruins and temples (Temple of Demeter, Kouroi, Panagia Drosiani monastery)
- Wander Hora’s castle and old streets
- Sample Naxian potatoes, cheese, and Kitron liqueur
Final Thoughts
Naxos is the island you go to when you want Greek island life without the chaos — beaches, old Venetian lanes, mountain villages, good food, slow mornings. It’s the island that feels lived-in — not staged.
What is your favourite Greek Island? Tell me in the comments — and don’t forget to share why!
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