Just an hour east of Prague lies Kutná Hora, a small Czech town with a mighty history. Many travellers will have this town on their radar because of the Sedlec Ossuary (Bone Chapel). That is certainly why we did and carved out an entire day in our Prague itinerary for the side trip.
How to get there
We took the train from Prague, which departs about every hour, taking about an hour (schedule planning here). The Kunta Hora train station is a little bit out of town, but there are good bus connections (bus # 801, 381). We chose to walk, as the Ossuary is only 1 km from the train station.
The Bone Chapel
We bought our ticket at the information center – you can bundle tickets for a variety of attractions. We chose not to, as we were not sure of our plan.
The Ossuary is a very short walk up the road. Note that there are no toilets, and the nearby shops/cafes have put fees on toilet use, likely in response to tourism.
The Bone Chapel is underneath the Cemetery Church of All Saints, and is home to an estimated 40,000–70,000 people’s bones. The story goes back to the 13th century, when an abbot from Sedlec returned from the Holy Land with soil from Golgotha and sprinkled it over the abbey cemetery. This made Sedlec a highly desired burial site, especially during the Black Death and Hussite Wars, when thousands were laid to rest there. By the 16th century, the sheer number of remains had become unmanageable. A half-blind monk was tasked with exhuming and stacking them in the chapel.
In the late 19th century, a woodcarver named František Rint was commissioned to bring order—and artistry—to the bones. He made chandeliers, coats of arms, and garlands out of the bones. The result serves as a memento mori, a reminder of the impermanence of life and the shared fate of all humanity.
Though this sight was unique and eerie, it was not the highlight of our day trip to Kutná Hora. We were both a little underwhelmed and almost disappointed. I, expecting a similar experience and details to the Bone Chapel in Evora, Portugal. For Mark, it was smaller than he anticipated. An interesting experience with interesting history, but this in itself would not have been worth the day trip from Prague (for us – to each their own opinion).
No photos are allowed – and maybe this is part of the problem – the images online make it look so much more than it is, or maybe how it was. Reality did not match expectations here.
Fortunately, we found a different highlight in Kutná Hora!
Czech Museum of Silver & Hrádek Mine Tour
Kutná Hora was once a major center of silver mining and one of the richest cities in Bohemia. In fact, Kutná Hora rivalled Prague in wealth and political importance during the medieval era. On a whim, we found that the Czech Museum of Silver offered mine tours through Hrádek Mine. The price includes a guide and a cool outfit. We were running short on time, so we took the tour in Czech – although the guide provided written material in English and occasionally shared a few things with us, which was very nice of them.
It was such a cool experience walking in pitch darkness, only with the bob of your head lantern lighting the way. If you are claustrophobic or have back issues, I would not recommend the tunnels, which are tight and short. They do take you through a “test” tunnel before heading into the mine itself, so that you can be sure of what you are getting into.
Other sights in Kutná Hora
- Sedlec Cathedral (Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady and St. John the Baptist) – Near the Bone Church, this Gothic-Baroque cathedral is another UNESCO site, restored with dramatic flourishes by architect Jan Santini Aichel. This Cathedral is on the main road from the train station – you’ll pass it on your way.
- Italian Court (Vlašský dvůr) – Once the Royal Mint of Bohemia, where silver coins were struck. You can tour the old minting rooms and learn about Kutná Hora’s economic power in the Middle Ages.
- Historic Center – Wander cobblestone lanes lined with medieval and Renaissance houses, little cafés, and local shops. The town feels much quieter than Prague, but just as atmospheric.
- Stone Fountain – An ornate 15th-century water tower in the town center that once supplied fresh water to residents.
- St. Barbara’s Church – A stunning Gothic masterpiece dedicated to miners, with soaring vaulted ceilings, intricate frescoes, and views across the town. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We did not go in, but it certainly looked impressive on the outside!
Food
We had lunch at Cafe Restaurant Benesova 6. It was a locals’ place – the servers only spoke a little English, though they did have an English menu. We had some of the daily specials – mine was a stuffed dumpling with crispy onions and sauerkraut. Mark had a beef dish – that he devoured. It was a hefty meal, but so delicious – quite possibly one of our favourites in Czechia!
Kutná Hora is compact, walkable, and full of charm — making it an ideal day trip for those looking to step outside the bustle of Prague without going too far. It offers a dive deeper into the country’s rich and complex past.
Go for the Bone Chapel, stay for everything else.
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