Back home in Vancouver, the rainy season had already settled in. We hadn’t been outside on our bikes in weeks, and while indoor trainers keep your legs moving, they’re undeniably a little soul-crushing. So I cannot tell you how wonderful it felt to be on the bikes outside – especially for an adventure on the Shimanami Kaido.
Funnily enough, we almost skipped the route entirely because it seemed “too touristy.” I am so glad we didn’t. This turned out to be one of the most enjoyable rides we’ve ever done — a perfect blend of scenery, culture, and pure cycling joy.
What and Where is the Shimanami Kaido?
The Shimanami Kaido is a 70–80 km expressway and cycling route connecting Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture to Imabari in Ehime Prefecture. It crosses six islands in the Seto Inland Sea via seven impressive bridges, each with dedicated cycling paths.
Historically, these islands were home to maritime trade, fishing communities, shrine culture, and even Murakami pirates. Today, they blend natural beauty, local food, and deep history with the most cyclist-friendly infrastructure imaginable: blue navigation lines, gentle bridge ramps, “cyclist sanctuaries,” and towns that genuinely welcome riders. Just follow the blue painted line.
How to Get There
Take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Shin-Onomichi and then a bus down into Onomichi city. Alternatively, take a local JR train to Onomichi Station, which is within a 10-minute walk to the Giant store and the ferry.
For more information on using trains in Japan, see this post:
A Few Logistics and Tips
Bike Rentals
We rented our bikes at the Giant store in Onomichi, and you’ll definitely want to reserve in advance. On both pickup and return days, they had signs saying fully booked. You can reserve about a month ahead. There are also rental shops in Imabari if you’re riding in the opposite direction. One-way rentals are available, but there’s an extra fee (¥3,300 or $30 CAD).
We rented the aluminum road bikes for about $80 CAD per day each. They have carbon, premium carbon, city bikes and ebikes for rent too.
Timing + Sunset
The Giant store opens at 09:00, so plan your day around that and around local sunset times. In November, the sun set around 5:30–6:00 pm. We rolled into Imabari at dusk, relying on our front lights. But it also meant we had front-row seats to a glowing sunset as we crossed the final bridge!
Accommodation Planning
Many cyclists split the route across one or two nights, staying on the islands to explore shrines, beaches, viewpoints, and cafes. People were often surprised when we told them we were doing an out-and-back in two days. But long rides are nothing new for us.
Despite wishing we could stay on the islands, we couldn’t find accommodation in spots that made sense — so a two-day round trip it was. Here is a website that lists recommended accommodations along the route, based on their cycle-friendliness.
Storage + Showers
If you plan to leave bags in Onomichi, double-check which station you’ll depart from, as it is not super convenient to go between the two stations. We left ours at Shin-Onomichi, which limited train options because the Shinkansen only stops there occasionally.
In retrospect, lockers at Onomichi Station or the U2 building would have been a better option.
After your ride, the U2 complex (home to the cycle-hotel and the Giant store) has coin showers — perfect for cleaning up before dinner or travel.
The Shimanami Kaido Route(s)
The Ferry Start
The journey officially begins with a short ferry from Onomichi to Mukaishima.
Cost: 110 yen per person (100 for you + 10 for the bike).
It’s cash only, paid onboard.
Follow the Blue Line
Once you land, follow the iconic blue line or blue arrows painted on the road. This system is so well-marked it’s almost impossible to get lost.
- The “recommended route” = is the most direct path at about 80 km
- Signs for the recommended route indicate: Onomichi → or Imabari → depending on your direction of travel
- The “Island Explorer” routes are scenic detours and routes to attractions or are simply for adding km.
- Follow signs for the Island Explorer –>, eventually you should link back up with the recommended route
This is quite literally the best-marked cycling system we’ve ever experienced. Here is a model itinerary and route map, and here is our route.
Roads + Drivers
We mostly rode on the road, even though there were often separate paths for pedestrians and bikes. Drivers were courteous and gave plenty of space.
The Bridges
You will cross six unique bridges:
- Innoshima Bridge
- Ikuchi Bridge
- Tatara Bridge
- Omishima Bridge
- Hakata-Ōshima Bridge
- Kurushima-Kaikyō Bridges (the longest stretch at about 4 km!)
Each bridge has dedicated cycling lanes, accessed via beautifully graded spiral or ramp-style climbs. These on-ramps are gentle enough that you barely notice you’re gaining elevation. They also often offer pretty amazing views.
Cycling Amenities
The route is exceptionally cyclist-friendly. There is generally bike parking at cafes and attractions. Many businesses have a ‘certification’ for cycle friendliness – they will have the logo below, which indicates that they have water fill options, tire pumps, multi-tools and more.
Also scattered around, often before or after a bridge crossing, is a “Cyclist Sanctuary”. Basically, rest stops with:
- Bathrooms
- Vending machines
- Seating
- Amazing bridge views
Sights Along the Way
Because we were riding out-and-back in two days, we didn’t have much time for detours, but we made room for two:
1. Cyclist Shrine (Oyama Shrine)
Perched on Innoshima Island, Oyama Shrine is one of the Shimanami Kaido’s most unique stops—especially for cyclists. While the shrine itself dates back centuries and is dedicated to the guardian deities of seafarers and travellers, it has taken on a new life in recent years as a spiritual waypoint for those journeying across the islands by bike.
Just off the main route, you’ll find a small but charming cyclist-dedicated sub-shrine. The shrine is complete with bike racks and ema (wooden prayer plaques) decorated with hand-drawn bicycles and messages from riders around the world. Many cyclists stop here to offer a quick prayer for safe travels, smooth legs on the climbs, and good weather over the bridges. You can also purchase bicycle-themed amulets and charms for road safety and theft prevention.
2. Oyamazumi Shrine & Treasure Hall (Omishima)
A must-see.
The treasure hall contains one of the largest collections of samurai weapons and armour in Japan (about 80% of such artifacts!), many with visible battle damage. It’s rare, atmospheric, and historically rich. Because Omishima Island was on a major transportation route, the samurai used to stop here and pray for success in battle. If they were successful, they would return to make offerings of their weapons and armour to the shrine.
The Shrine complex is beautiful too, home to 2500-year-old camphor trees!
No photos are allowed in the museum/treasure hall – but here are some of the shrine.
Other Notable Stops
- Pirate Museum (Innoshima or Oshima)
- Kosanji Temple & Hill of Hope: A dazzling, artistic hillside carved from Greek marble.
- Gorgeous viewpoints on the Island Explorer routes
Local Treats
Make sure to try something made with the region’s famous Setouchi citrus. We stopped for lemon cakes and lemonade, which were perfect on a warm day. Try a Hakata Salt Soft Serve, sweet, salty, and perfect mid-ride. Then, in Imabari, try a Yakibuta Tamago Meshi – rice topped with glazed pork, soft eggs, and savoury sauce. After a full day of riding… it is the right combination of carbs, protein and deliciousness.
We also stocked up on:
- Gummy candies for quick sugar during the ride (our favourites were a melon cola and a mix of grape, apple and peach)
- Convenience store pastries (I’ll always say yes to a melon-pan)
Final Thoughts
The Shimanami Kaido is one of those places that reminds us exactly why we love cycling. It’s scenic, accessible, welcoming, and thoughtfully designed — a route built for riders, not just accommodating them.
For us, it delivered everything we hoped for: adventure, views, good food, warm interactions, and that irreplaceable sense of freedom only a bike can give you.
If you’re planning a trip to Japan and even thinking about doing the Shimanami Kaido, don’t hesitate.
Do it. Go slow, go fast, go one-way, go round-trip — just go!
And if you have questions about logistics, route choices, or how to plan your own Shimanami adventure, drop them in the comments — I’m happy to help fellow riders plan their perfect trip.
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