Just north of Kyoto is Japan’s largest freshwater lake — Lake Biwa — a calm, scenic place where locals swim, cycle, paddleboard, and temple-hop. Lake Biwa has been a cultural heartland for centuries: ancient shrines, Zen monasteries, and old post towns ring the shoreline.
Much like the Shimanami Kaido route, the Biwaichi route is a 195+ km National Cycling Route and features that same little blue line. The route has a ‘slow course’ that mainly sticks to bike/pedestrian paths and an ‘advanced course’ for those comfortable riding on the road or looking for more endurance and fast pacing. There are also numerous side routes taking you to different sights. We rode somewhere in between slow and advanced, with some side quests added too. Whichever route you take, the Lake Biwa ride offers a perfect blend of adventure, serenity, and interesting sightseeing spots, allowing you to delve deeper into Japan’s history and culture.
Where to Start?
Since it is a loop, you can start just about anywhere. The only potentially limiting factor is if you need to rent bikes for the trip (more on rentals in the next section).
The route is mapped out to ride most seamlessly in a counterclockwise direction; however, we rode in a clockwise direction and thought, based on the sights, it was better this way. Here is a link to a very detailed map.
Lake Biwa is divided into a North (hokko) and South (nanko) lake by the Biwako-ohashi Bridge. The North Lake is the largest part and the area we focused on. The South Lake is narrower and more densely populated, but significantly shorter (50 km), so possibly good for a single day’s ride.
Rental Bikes
We rented bikes from the trusty Giant Store – Biwako Moriyama. We ride Giant at home, and the bikes we used on Shimanami Kaido were great. This Giant store is located at the Lake Biwa Marriott, which is a great place to stay, either starting or ending your riding adventure.
Tip: Marriott offers a free shuttle to/from the Katata train station, which can be used by Giant renters as well. We were staying at the Marriott after the ride. They generously let us store our large luggage.
We rented aluminum road bikes for 3 days, costing about $130 CAD (14500 yen) each. The rental comes with a helmet, bike pump, tire repair kit, and bike locks. The bike itself has a front light and a red tail reflector.
There is also a bike rental shop in Maibara, Biwaichi Rental Cycle – it is not a brand-specific shop. Prices at this shop are similar to those at Giant. They do specify needing a reservation.
Our Route
As I mentioned, we rode clockwise. Mark was the route architect, and it was great. There definitely were a few hiccups where we lost the blue line because we were riding on the opposite side, but it all worked out.
The reason we thought riding clockwise was better was that we got to end the ride with a scenic view of the lake and the Biwako sign. Riding over the bridge and through a busy area would have been a less satisfying way to end the lakeside loop journey.
Here are our day-by-day routes linked to Ride with GPS.
Day 1
The longest ride day. But it made sense given that our muscles were fresh and the weather was forecasted to be the best. The first 15 km was busy city riding, but once we got onto the bike paths with lake views it became more peaceful and enjoyable.
Highlights & Sights
- Shirahige Shrine – One of the oldest shrines in the region and is famous for its torii gate standing directly in Lake Biwa. The sight is especially striking at sunrise or sunset, when the gate appears to float on the water.
- Lunch: Blue Taco – giving tacos a Japanese flair, using rice in the tortillas, these were a delicious twist.
- Riding through districts of Makinocho Nishihama and Makinocho Chinai of Takashima City. Very picturesque village feel.
- On our list but didn’t stop there: Village of Harie Shozu no Sato – another district of Takashima. This one is unique as spring water from the Hira Mountains flows directly into residents’ homes. These springs are used for cooking, cleaning, and cooling, creating a unique lifestyle. You can take a walking tour ‘Kabata‘ which introduces you to the people of the village, their traditions, and views of the springs. Reservations are required and can be made on this form. This webpage gives more information.
- Metasequoia Avenue – 500 Metasequoia trees are planted on either side of the road. They are beautiful in the fall with leaves changing red and golden. So popular in fact that there were line ups of cars to drive beneath them.
- Dinner: Cafe Sancon – we went for the hamburgers (but were sold out) however the pancake dishes and matcha lattes were delicious, in a super cute cafe.
Day 2
Highlights & Sights
Sadly, as forecasted, the weather took a turn on us, the clouds rolled in bringing light rain and cooler temperatures. Fortunately, we were prepared for this. We planned to start early to avoid the worst of the rain and asked our next Airbnb host if we could check in early. Despite the rain, most of the ride was awesome with great views on quiet roads. We even got lucky in the afternoon with some sunshine for exploring Hikone.
- Breakfast: Family Mart pastries and coffee
- North coast of Biwa – rounding the top of the lake, the terrain is quite mountainous with the road passing through multiple tunnels. There is something about emerging from a tunnel with a beautiful new view. With the soggy rain, the clouds were low and created a misty, dreamy quality over the lake.
- Rice fields – a patchwork of rice paddies and agricultural fields. As it was autumn, the fields were golden, whereas in summer they would be bright green. It’s a peaceful stretch of riding, framed by mountains and open skies.
- Hikone Castle, Museum & Gardens – this was one of our favourite stops of the whole trip! The Museum is very informative about the history of Japan and the role of Hikone in the samurai leadership structure. The castle and gardens are very beautiful. You can buy a combo ticket for all 3 for around $15 CAD.
- Restaurant recommendation: Jango for seriously delicious chicken kaarage or curry
- Accommodation recommendation: Omi Guesthouse Hikone. One of the best homestay experiences we’ve ever had, the owner, Chihiro, was so kind, and the home was so lovely.
Day 3
Highlights & Sights
- Scenic coastal ride around Mt. Chomeiji – skirts the mountain, but still has some ups and downs. The route offers a tree-lined, curved road with a view of Biwa. We were riding in late November, so the leaves were a perfect mix of green, yellow and red. If you want to stop and go for a little hike, atop the mountain is historic Chomeiji Temple. Famous for its 808 stone steps leading to panoramic views of Lake Biwa, and a historic three-story pagoda.
- These stops were on our list, but were a bit of a detour, so we didn’t make it there:
- Hachiman-bori Canal – The Hachiman-bori Canal is a beautifully preserved Edo-period waterway that was once used to transport goods through the merchant town. Today, it’s a peaceful place for a stroll or boat ride, lined with traditional storehouses and seasonal greenery. It’s especially lovely in spring and autumn when the reflections are at their best.
- Hachimanyama Ropeway & Mount Hachiman – The Hachimanyama Ropeway climbs to the top of Mount Hachiman, offering sweeping views over Lake Biwa and the town below. At the summit, quiet walking paths and historic ruins make it easy to linger. It’s a gentle, scenic escape that pairs nature with a sense of history.
- Biwako lakeside sign – iconic photo stop celebrating Japan’s largest lake. Set against wide-open water and distant mountains, this location is perfect for documenting your journey around (or to) the lake.
Final Thoughts
Cycling around Lake Biwa is as much about atmosphere as it is about distance. Between quiet lakeside roads, stretches of open water, historic towns, and rural farmland, the route offers a gentle, immersive way to experience Japan beyond its cities. Whether you ride a single section or tackle the full loop, Lake Biwa rewards a slower pace—one where small moments, scenery, and local encounters become the highlight.
If you’re considering a cycling trip in Japan, add Lake Biwa to your list.
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