Crete, Greece – History, Beaches & Mountain Charm

Crete was added to our list of Greek islands after nearly everyone I spoke to told me we “had to go to Crete” and that “they absolutely loved it.” Glowing reviews from many fellow travellers, particularly some who have similar interests and travel style to us. I am happy to say that Crete did not disappoint. It was one of my favourite parts of the trip. I would say that we didn’t have enough time to properly explore the island, with 3 full days. As Greece’s largest island, it is so big that you kind of forget you are on an island at all. The landscape on Crete was very different from the other islands. It is very mountainous and green, making for a different Greek Island experience.

I would recommend at least 5 full days, with a car, if not more, especially if you want to add a few hikes (i.e., Samaria Gorge is a whole-day activity).

Getting There

We arrived by ferry from Santorini at Heraklion (Iraklion) port, which is the largest on the island. Chania (Hania) and Rethymnon (Rethimno) also have ferry ports, though fewer routes run through these two. There are a few smaller ports on the island that serve specific and nearby islands/cities. Check out ferry timetables & book tickets here.

Alternatively, there are international airports in Heraklion and Chania. We flew out of Heraklion airport on our way home.

Where to Stay

We based ourselves in Rethymnon (Rethymno or Rethimno), thinking that because it was central on the island, it would be a good base to explore. We definitely did explore a lot of the island, but we spent a lot of time driving. Crete is a huge island.

Though it can be inconvenient to only stay 1 or 2 nights in a place, I would recommend staying 1-2 nights near Heraklion (on the east side of the island) and exploring the area, then moving and staying either in Chania or Rethymno to explore the western side of the island. We stayed outside of the downtown core in Rethymno, about a 20-minute walk; however, it made driving and parking less stressful. It would have been lovely to stay in Old Town Rethymno, though!

---

Crete Sights & Activities

We kind of divided up the island into sections for exploring- the east, middle and west, so that is how this post is organized.

---

The Middle of Crete

Rethymno

Rethimno (Rethymnon) old town is a well-preserved Renaissance city built primarily by the Venetians, a heavyweight in the trade business during the Renaissance period. No wonder I felt like I was walking through an Italian city! We started our exploration by skirting the fortress (which is huge), which led us into the winding and narrow streets of the old town. These streets are filled with shops, restaurants and small squares (?piazzas as they would be in Italy) displaying fountains and other sculptures. The Ottomans also held power in Crete for a time, so there is an ancient mosque in the heart of the old town.

Sights in Old Town include:

• The fortress
• Old town streets
•  The Venetian Harbour and lighthouse
• The Venetian Loggia.
• The Rimondi Fountain.
• The Historical – Folk Museum of Rethymno.
• The Nerantze Mosque

Beaches

After the bustle of town, we planned to visit some of the beaches recommended by our hotel receptionist. We chose 2, Plakia & Preveli beach, both on the southern coast of the island. Off we went in the car!

On our way to the beaches, we drove through the very unique and beautiful Kourtaliotiko Gorge (also known as “Asomatos Gorge”). Being a gorge, the road is narrow, winding and a little nerve-racking at times. There were a few small churches tucked in odd spots along the road. What came to be one of my favourite parts of Crete was the numerous olive tree orchards. Basically, any open land, even up the mountainside, olive trees were growing in rows upon rows.

Plakias

Plakias is a beachfront town with a large bay & long stretch of sandy beach. It definitely felt like a beach town, people were laid back, cafes & shops lined the street across from the beach. There were some lounge chairs & umbrellas for hire, along with open & free spaces. There were a few groups of people around, but it was not terribly busy. We popped our stuff down and walked into the water – it was already pretty hot out. The water was so clear, and the ground was sandy out as far as we went. The sun was hot, and with few trees, we were finding that we couldn’t just lie on the beach all day. The beach was pretty, but I was looking for something unique.

Preveli Beach

This beach takes a little dedication to enjoy. The parking lot is at the top of a cliff (charge 2 euros). Obviously, to get to the water, you have to descend the cliff. There is a rough trail down which takes about 20 minutes. Fortunately, the views are amazing all the way down, basically just getting you excited about your time on this beach. Despite the journey to get down, the beach was really busy. It was obviously a well-loved beach for locals and visitors alike. There is a little cafe near the trail. Aside from the beautiful views, sand and water, the beach is unique as the Kourtaliotis River flows down from the mountains and meets the sea. The fresh water allows for a palm grove to grow nearby. It felt very tropical.

The Central-Eastern Side of Crete

Heading back towards Heraklion today. Initially, I had planned a few more stops for this day, but after realizing that the drive takes a little more time than Google suggests, I cut some stops.

Minoan Palace of Knossos

20 minutes south of Heraklion city, the Palace of Knossos was once a huge settlement beginning in the Neolithic period (around 1700 BC) until and was abandoned after its destruction in 1375 BC, which marked the end of Minoan civilization. The Palace is known for its grandeur and complexity compared to other Minoan sites. The British archaeologist who discovered it had much of it restored (to what accuracy is unknown), but the site still boasts beautiful frescoes, large pottery and many ruined structures.

There are many plaques along the path explaining what you are looking at and examples of how it may have looked. We spent about 1.5-2 hours here. There is a large parking lot near the entrance. The fee was 15 euros each, which was definitely the most expensive thing on Crete, but worth it considering the costs of upkeep and restoration. There are bathrooms, gift shops and cafes on site.

Lasithi Plateau

After the Knossos Palace, we wanted to explore a little of the landscape (and I wanted to see some windmills!) I had read that you could still find some on the Lasithi Plateau, a large farming area. It also happened that the Psychro Cave was nearby. Another “Cave of Zeus” we wanted to see how this one compared to the slightly unimpressive one on Naxos. The drive up to Lasithi is not for the faint of heart. There are lots of narrow roads, switchbacks with little railings and up into the mountains – the Dikti Range. The plateau sits at about 817 meters, with a few of the mountains still higher. The views were amazing (see the middle photo below), and I got to see my windmills. There wasn’t a whole lot on the plateau except a few small villages (with cafes), but it is beautiful.

Cave of Zeus (Psychro Cave)

The cave was really cool. There are 2 paths up to the cave entrance – one is a bit of a trail, and the other is a graded, paved path. We took the tough way up and the path down. You can also take a donkey, but it is not necessary (and not nice for the animal). The fee is 6 euros a person. You descend into the cave via stairs. The path is one way, so your best bet is to just walk slowly, taking in the surroundings.

The cave is lit with an eerie green light (which I am sure has a purpose, maybe to protect the animals and rock formations). There are stalagmites and stalactites. The difference? The former “grows” from the ground up, while the latter is like an icicle hanging from the cave ceiling. Both are created from water carrying minerals. I’ve been in a handful of caves in different places around the world, and this one definitely had some of the coolest formations. Not to mention the cave itself was a nice cool temperature, as we ventured in at the hottest part of the day.

During some excavations, evidence of worship was found in the cave, dating back to 1800 BC. There is also evidence of it being used as a place of refuge during revolutions and violent times. These findings are housed in the Archaeology Museum in Heraklion. Most famously of course, it is associated with where Zeus was born and raised – hidden away by his mother Rhea, from his offspring-eating father Cronos.

The Western Side of Crete

I was pretty excited for this day, as we hadn’t ventured any farther than Rethymno.

Chania

Chania is another Venetian harbour city with its winding alleys filled with bougainvillea and jasmine. The buildings are colourful, with small balconies overlooking the street. Again, deja vu for Italian cities like Florence, Venice (duh) and Siena. Chania is a bigger city than Rethymno with a more bustling vibe; it is the 2nd largest city on the island after all. We wandered to and around the harbour, then up some of the shopping streets.

Things to do/see in Chania:

• Old town Harbour & lighthouse
• Maritime Museum Archaeology museum in an old monastery
• The Monasteries of the Akrotiri Peninsula (10 km outside of the city)
• Municipal Market (indoor market – good for souvenirs, local products)
• Botanical Gardens

Elafonissi Beach

The famous pink beach! I do want to give a little disclaimer – it is not as pink as it looks in photos, especially Pinterest ones, which have likely been highly photoshopped. The pink colour comes from crushed coral and shells (maybe the colour is stronger at certain times of year?). The sand has more of a tinge than actually being pink, and is more prominent in areas of buildup (i.e. right at the shore, near rocks).

Regardless of the “lack of” pink, the sand was gorgeous. It was soft and fine. The water, crystal clear. The beach itself, huge! As the beach is at the tip of the island, it stretches in different directions, offering plenty of space and places to explore.

Being at the tip of the island, it is out of the way. We did not pass much in the way of towns or shops around, so we have drinks and snacks with you. Unless you want to pay premium prices at the concession. There is a lot of parking, but it’s a popular beach (despite being out of the way), so it was nearly full. Outhouses and some concession stands are available.

The only downfall was how windy it was (I cannot speak to this being a frequent occurrence). The wind kept lifting the fine sand and blowing it around and into our eyes and mouths. We didn’t actually stay that long, partially due to the wind. We walked around, swam, and lay on the sand for a bit, but it was hot without shade options (and the wind/flying sand). It was worth the time, effort and sandy eyes.

---

Food to Try

• dakos (Cretan bruschetta with tomato, mizithra cheese, and olive oil)
• raki (local spirit)
• bougatsa (phyllo pastry with cream or cheese)
• kalitsounia (small cheese pies)
• antikristo lamb (slow-cooked over open fire)

---

Itinerary Ideas

These two itineraries assume you arrive in Heraklion, have a car, and are generally okay with faster-paced trips. There is a mix of historical sites, old cities, beaches and hikes.

You could have accommodation in a central location like Rethymno, which just adds driving back and forth. But not having to pack up each morning, lugging around bags and getting settled in each afternoon/evening is nice too, so it depends on your preference.

---

---

Pin me for later…

---

You might also like to read…