There’s a timeless magic to Hoi An. Once a bustling port city between the 15th and 19th centuries, its Ancient Town is a living museum of weathered yellow merchant houses, wooden Chinese shophouses, Japanese bridges, and French colonial details, all set against lush greenery and adorned with colourful lanterns. It’s the kind of place where history is felt in every cracked wall and cobbled lane. A reminder of the many cultures that have left their mark while still retaining their old-world feel.
Getting to Hoi An
We arrived around 5 pm at Da Nang Airport and took a 45-minute Uber into Hoi An. Hoi An does not have an airport or train station, so Da Nang is your most likely option. Unless, of course, you are driving. There is a bus from the airport to Hoi An, departing approximately every 20 minutes and taking 1-1.5 hours.
Accommodation
I am not usually one to recommend accommodations, but I have to for this one. We stayed at the gorgeous Lasenta Boutique Hotel. It felt luxurious, with an infinity pool and unobstructed views over the rice fields, all for a surprisingly reasonable price. It was a little bit outside the ancient town, but the views were more than worth the extra walking.
Our first evening…
After checking into the hotel, ogling the view and washing off our day of travel, we headed into the ancient town for dinner. Even as many shops were closing, we were immediately captivated by the narrow lanes lined with lanterns and glowing yellow facades in the soft evening light. For dinner, we tried the famous White Rose Dumplings (Bánh Bao Bánh Vạc) and crispy savoury pancakes (Bánh Xèo) at Hoi An Cuisine Restaurant. Afterwards, we wandered down to the river. It felt like the heart of the city, just as it must have during its trading post days, with lights shimmering across the water and lanterns bobbing softly in the current. We took a boat ride and released a floating lantern onto the river—a small, symbolic moment that felt especially cathartic for Katie.
Crossing to the other side of the river, we explored the night market, scoped out adventurous street food for later (which we never quite made it back for), and paused to enjoy live music at a riverside bar. The energy of Hoi An at night is both lively and comforting, a gentle hum under strings of lanterns.
Our only full day…
The next morning, we hopped on bikes (courtesy of the hotel) and rode through rice paddies. Our destination was the coconut forest near the neighbourhoods of Cẩm Châu and Cẩm Thanh. The green fields stretched endlessly, broken by the occasional water buffalo or farmer tending to the fields, reminding us that even a short ride from the lantern-lit streets brings you back to Vietnam’s gentle countryside. If you’re inclined, a popular activity in this area is taking a coconut basket boat ride along the rivers and canals.
By afternoon, we were back in Ancient Town, wandering past tailor shops, silk lantern stalls, and small eateries tucked into colourful alleyways. We were simply following where our eyes were drawn. We had a late lunch at a family-run restaurant overlooking the river, snacking on baby squid, fresh rolls, and noodles before heading to a local brewery for a flight of craft beers.
Later, we retreated to the hotel’s infinity pool, lounging with happy hour drinks as the light softened over the rice paddies—a perfect pause before heading back into town for a later dinner.
Hoi An was a soft landing amid our whirlwind itinerary, a place where slow mornings, golden afternoons, and lantern-lit evenings remind you to breathe, savour, and let the days unfold at their own unhurried pace. It’s one of those places you leave wishing you had just a little more time, already planning your return.
Had we spent more time in Hoi An, we likely would have:
- Attended a cooking class
- Had clothing tailored (Hoi An is famous for this!)
- Visited more of Ancient Town’s UNESCO Heritage sites and museums
- Made a day trip to My Son Sanctuary (1 hour inland)
- Visited Hue Imperial City (2.5 hours north)
Summary of things to do…
- Wander through Ancient Town, enjoying the contrasting yellow and blue buildings by day and the colourful lanterns by night
- Visit the heritage sites and museums
- Rent bikes and ride through rice fields
- Take a coconut basket boat ride
- Enjoy all the delicious food and drinks
- Check out the night market – shop, and sample unique foods
- Enjoy live music at the bars along the river
- Take a night-time boat ride on the river, releasing a floating lantern.
Pin me for later
Leave a Reply